Repair vs. replacement: How to decide

When facing a problem with your tankless water heater, here are some factors to weigh before choosing between repair and replacement: 

• Age of the unit: A tankless water heater can last 15–20 years with proper maintenance. If your unit is older, it may be nearing the end of its lifespan.
• Cost of repair: As a general rule, if the cost of the repair is more than 50% of the cost of a new unit, replacement is likely the more economical option.
• Maintenance history: A unit with a history of regular maintenance is more likely to be a good candidate for repair. If it has been neglected, it may be more prone to recurring and costly issues.
• Signs of system failure: Certain issues point toward replacement rather than repair. For example, a cracked heat exchanger is a serious problem that may warrant a new unit.
• Changing hot water needs: If your household's hot water needs have increased and your current unit can no longer keep up, it may be time to replace it with a larger model. 

 

Common signs you need a flush or repair 

Even with a regular maintenance schedule, be aware of signs that your tankless water heater needs attention sooner: 

• Inconsistent water temperature: If your hot water fluctuates from hot to cold, it can be a sign of mineral buildup on the heat exchanger.
• Reduced water pressure: Scale buildup can restrict the water flow, causing a noticeable decrease in pressure.
• Strange noises: Popping, rumbling, or crackling sounds can indicate that mineral deposits are affecting the heating process.
• Error codes: Many modern tankless units have digital displays that show error codes when maintenance is needed. Consult your manual for the code's meaning.
• Discolored water: Sediment or corrosion can cause the hot water to appear rusty or cloudy. 

 

 

Tank-style water heaters

 

Maintaining your tank-style water heater, whether gas or electric, is crucial for efficiency, safety, and longevity. The specific steps are largely the same for both types, with a few distinctions related to the power source. 

 

Annual and biannual maintenance

Note; I had a customer in 1999 that wanted to replace his electric water heater that was originally installed in 1955.  That's 44 years! The tank was in perfect condition zero leaks.  When I asked why he wanter to replace it, he said, " I can no longer purchase replacement thermostats for it...so I replaced it.  How did he do this?  Simple, my customer flushed his water heater every six months.  Yep each year on January 1 and July 4th he flushed it, and it lasted for 44 years!

Flush the tank

• Purpose: Remove the mineral sediment that accumulates at the bottom of the tank. Sediment buildup reduces efficiency, can cause rumbling noises, and may eventually cause the tank to fail.
• Frequency: Annually for most, but every six months for households with hard water.
• Procedure:
  1. Turn off the water heater. Turn the circuit breaker off for electric models or set the gas valve to "Pilot".
  2. Turn off the cold water supply to the heater.
  3. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and run it to a floor drain or outside.
  4. Open a hot water faucet in your home to allow air into the system.
  5. Open the drain valve on the water heater and let the tank empty.
  6. Close the drain valve, turn off the hot water faucet, and refill the tank. For electric heaters, make sure the tank is full before restoring power to prevent burning out the heating elements. 

Test the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve 

• Purpose: Ensure the safety valve is working correctly to prevent a dangerous pressure buildup.
• Frequency: Annually.
• Procedure: Place a bucket under the valve's discharge pipe, lift the lever to allow a burst of water to flow out, then let it snap shut. If no water is released or the valve leaks afterward, it should be replaced. 

Inspect and replace the anode rod 

• Purpose: The "sacrificial" anode rod protects the steel tank from corrosion. It should be replaced before it is completely corroded.
• Frequency: Inspect annually. A new rod can last three to five years, but this varies based on water quality.
• Procedure:
  1. Turn off the power or gas and the cold water supply.
  2. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank to relieve pressure.
  3. Using a socket and wrench, remove the old anode rod from the top of the tank.
  4. Inspect the rod. If it is less than half an inch thick or has more than 6 inches of core wire exposed, replace it.
  5. Install a new anode rod, applying thread sealant before tightening. 

 

Gas water heater-specific maintenance

• Clean the burner and intake vents: At least once a year, clean the burner chamber, pilot assembly, and air intake to remove dust and debris that can cause the pilot light to go out.
• Check the venting system: For safety, inspect the venting system annually to ensure it is clear and properly connected to prevent backdrafts of carbon monoxide. 

 

Electric water heater-specific maintenance

• Test the heating elements: If you experience inconsistent heating, test the upper and lower heating elements and the thermostat to ensure they are working correctly. 

 

General tips for all tank water heaters

• Set the correct temperature: Setting your heater to 120°F (49°C) is an ideal balance for comfort, safety, and energy efficiency.
• Insulate the tank and pipes: Insulating an older tank and its pipes helps reduce heat loss and lower energy costs.
• Conduct routine visual inspections: Regularly check the unit's body, connections, and surrounding area for any leaks or corrosion. 

 

When you employ us to flush your water heater we...

1. Drain and clean the interior of the unit. $150.00 labor included

2. Remove and inspect the elements, replace them if they are 5 years old or older. (electric units) new elements $65.00 labor included

3 Replace the thermostats when they are 5 years old or older.(electric units) new thermostats $65.00 labor included

4. Inspect the anode rod, replace if necessary, new anode $98.00 labor included

5. Inspect the interior of the tank. $55.00 labor included

6. Inspect the expansion tank, confirm the expansion tank is pressurized to match the house water pressure, replace if necessary new expansion tank $55.00 labor included

7 Inspect gas valve and thermocouple, (gas units) new thermocouple $60.00 labor included

8. Inspect shut-off water valve. replace if necessary new valve $75.00 labor included